Velvet jackets, waistcoats and coats heavily embroidered with metal thread were part of formal dress in many areas of south-eastern Europe and the Near East from about 1830 onwards. This short jacket has a distinct miliatry bearing evidenced by the use of gold embroidery, like that on military and diplomatic uniforms, and the stiff, erect collar, encrusted with gold and silver thread which spills onto the front of the garment. In contrast, the delicate ruffle of silk chiffon which has been attached around the collar and the front edges is soft and falls into ripples of gossamer as it caresses the wearer's neck. It is totally femine and very unusual in a garment of this type. Although it is securely attached, the quality of the stitching is poor which suggests it has been added by another hand--probably to make the jacket reflect western European fashion. It is possible that the cream silk lining is not original and that it too was added later. The combination of soft, silky velvet on one side and cool, smooth silk on the other lends a slightly padded effect to the garment. Woman's jacket of wine-coloured silk velvet embroidered with white and yellow metal thread and trimmed with pleated white silk chiffon; lined with white silk damask.