Dress fabric of silk damask, designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite, Spitalfields, London, 1752. Dress fabric of pink silk damask. The pattern consists of a large palm tree with exotic flowers. There are two other similar trees, but with slightly differing foliage and flowers. British Galleries: Simon Julins, a specialist damask weaver, commissioned the design for this silk. It has an exceptionally long pattern repeat of over one metre. Silk damasks, woven in a single colour, often had large-scale patterns. Their subtle outlines could be seen through the effect of light on the contrasting surfaces of the weave. [27/03/2003] Object Type
This silk fabric is a damask. Damask is a type of weave whose effect depends on the differing play of light on its pattern surfaces, which alternate between the smooth face and the contrasting reverse of satin weave. With the importance of light reflection it is particularly effective when woven in silk, though it was also woven in worsted (wool). It was widely used as a dress fabric in the early and mid-18th century, for women's gowns and men's nightgowns (informal wear at home).

Design & Designing
Because the effect of damask was more subtle than multicoloured silks, designs for silk damasks were generally on a larger scale. A contemporary handbook to art and manufacture, George Smith's Laboratory or School of Arts, commented: 'Damask designs require the boldest stroke of any; the flowers and leaves should always be large and the small work omitted as much as possible unless it be in the middle of a leaf or flower.' This silk demonstrates that rule well.

People
Although he commissioned designs from the freelance designer Anna Maria Garthwaite for different types of silk, Simon Julins specialised in the weaving of silk damasks like this. He was listed at Booth Street in Spitalfields in a trade directory of 1763, some 61 years after his own apprenticeship, still a successful master weaver with journeymen weavers in his employment.