1650 / 1665, United Kingdom

1650 / 1665, United Kingdom

Identifier
T.91-2003
Acquisition
Purchased with Art Fund support and assistance from the Friends of the V&A, and a number of private donors
Collection
Material
Technique
Depiction
Dimension
109 cm (circumference)
46 cm (length)
Production time
Production place

Description

A short doublet made of figured silver-gilt silk tissue and trimmed with silvergilt bobbin lace over the seams, along the sleeves and cuffs. It has a standing collar and fastens down the front with 19 buttons. The sleeves reach the forearm and the front seam is open from shoulder to cuff. The centre back seam is also open from collar to waist. The waist is trimmed with eight narrow waist tabs. The inside waist has five metal rings for attaching to the breeches. Doublets formed part of the fashionable ensemble of clothing worn by men in Europe until the late 1660s. The very short length of this example is characteristic of the extreme style of doublets at their final appearance in the male wardrobe. From 1650 to 1665, doublets shortened so that there was a gap between doublet and breeches through which the shirt could be seen. The centre back and front sleeves were left unstitched for further exposure of the shirt, which in the 17th century was considered underwear. More conservative members of society considered the result rather untidy looking. Such a radical fashion, usually worn by young men, attracted the attention of cartoonists and the condemnation of moralists. The spectacular golden effect of the fabric of this example was created by weaving with silk and with threads wrapped with strips of silver gilt. This splendid material was probably imported from Italy, as there was little in the way of silk-weaving in Britain at this time. Adding to the luxurious effect is the lavish use of bobbin lace also made of silver-gilt thread.