1790, 1795 / 1800, France

1790, 1795 / 1800, France

Identifier
T.365-1920
Acquisition
From the collection of the late Miss Kathleen Dawson of Chelsea, given by her sister Miss Marion Dawson
Collection
Material
Technique
Depiction
Dimension
54,110 cm (circumference,length)
105.5 cm (circumference)
122,0.42 kg,cm (length,weight)
Production time
Production place
Type of object

Description

Man's coat, 1795-1800, French; Striped, figured, pink silk, steel buttons A man’s coat of pink, ivory and light grey figured silk twill with a 3⅛-inch (8 cm), turned-down collar, revers and curving, 2-piece sleeves ending in working mariner’s cuffs, 3 inches (7.5 cm) deep. The fronts are cut straight across at the waist, with fronts and back overlapping 2-inch (5 cm) beside the centre back. Each front a shaped pocket flap, with a welted pocket underneath; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The back and sleeves are lined with pink silk twill, the skirts with pink satin, the pockets with beige cotton. There are 4 cut-steel buttons on each front, but no buttonholes. The cuffs have 4 cut-steel buttons and cut buttonholes; there is a button at the top of the overlapping side seams. The coat worn as theatre costume in the late 19th century, but does not appear to be altered. The cuff buttons retain their original stitching; those on the fronts and sides have been resewn. Man’s waistcoat with a 2-inch (5 cm) standing collar, revers, straight fronts and hem, hip-length, with a welted pocket on each front. The fronts, collar, pocket welts and revers are made of cream silk taffeta. Two painted silk medallions, one depicting Justice and the other Hercules, have been applied below each pocket welt. The waistcoat is embroidered to shape with silk floss in white, brown and shades of pink and green, in a pattern of flowers, insects, crowns and ribbons on the collar, pocket welts, and along the front edges and hems. There are 10 worked buttonholes on the left front and 7 embroidered buttons on the right front edge. The waistcoat was altered in the late 19th century, probably for theatre costume or a studio prop. The back was replaced, the fronts stitched to another waistcoat and later, the sides taken in. Man's waistcoat, 1790s, French; Cream silk taffeta, embroidered, applied painted medallions, altered 1870-1910