1775, 1790 / 1800, France, Lyon

1775, 1790 / 1800, France, Lyon

Identifier
T.723-1913
Acquisition
Given by Messrs. Harrods, Given by Messrs Harrods
Collection
Material
Technique
Depiction
Dimension
96,110.5 cm (circumference)
65,108 cm (length)
Production time
Production place
Type of object

Description

Unique Man's court waistcoat, 1775-85, English or French; Cream silk taffeta, embroidered, flowers, net appliqué, altered 1870-1910 Man’s court waistcoat with round neckline, curving fronts and skirts. Each front has a pocket and pointed pocket flap. The fronts and pocket flaps are made of white silk satin. The waistcoat and pockets are lined with linen; the front skirt, pocket flap linings and front facings are ivory silk twill. The waistcoat is appliquéd with pale purple silk taffeta and warp-frame silk net in swags, and embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in white and shades of green, blue and purple in a pattern of flowers and leaves, on the pocket flaps, below the pockets and along the front edges and hems. The fronts are embroidered with repeating floral sprigs. There are 8 worked buttonholes along the left front with 7 embroidered buttons on the right front. The waistcoat was altered in the late 19th century, probably for theatrical costume. The waistcoat was shortened at the top, the upper fronts and necklines were removed and made into revers, the back replaced and enlarged. A man's coat of red velvet. The coat has a round neckline. The curved, two-piece sleeves end above the wrist with round cuffs. The coat fronts curve from neck to hem with skirts below the hip set in pleats at the side back. There is a scalloped pocket flap on each front at hip level. The coat is embroidered to shape with a applied scalloped band of light green silk, overlaid with warp-frame net and embroidered with silk thread, paste and silver spangles. The embroidery edges the fronts, around the pockets, the pocket flaps, the cuffs and back opening of the skirts. Silver spangles decorate the red velvet ground. The coat appears to have been heavily altered in the late 19th century, probably for theatrical use. The original embroidered-to-shape standing collar was removed and an extra piece (all additions were possibly from a waistcoat of the same fabric and embroidery) added, and the collar reversed and resewn to make a flat collar. The cuffs were detached and narrowed, the sleeve lengthened, and the cuffs resewn. The coat was lengthened at the hem with additional pieces of the velvet and embroidery, and the skirts narrowed. The pocket linings were removed and the pockets stitched up. The original lining and interlining were replaced and spangles and pastes resewn or replaced. A man's coat, 1775-1780, French or English; Red velvet, embroidered-to-shape, sequins, pastes, applied net, French, 1775-80; altered 1850-1910