1690 / 1700, London
1690 / 1700, London
- Identifier
- T.846R-1974
- Acquisition
- Purchased by public subscription
- Collection
- Technique
- Depiction
- Floral motif 48%
- Floral motif 57%
- Floral motif 48%
- Vegetal motif 67%
- Geometrical motif 45%
- Geometrical motif 55%
- Production time
- Production place
- Type of object
Description
This petticoat was made for a doll, known as Lady Clapham, that is thought to have belonged to the Cockerell family, descendants of the diarist Samuel Pepys (1633-1703). The daughter of Pepys's nephew John Jackson (the son of his sister Pauline) married a Cockerell, who had a family home in Clapham, south London.
Designs & Designing
Lady Clapham offers a fine example of both formal and informal dress for a wealthy woman in the 1690s (Museum nos. T.846&A to Y-1974). Her formal outfit includes a mantua (gown) and petticoat, while her informal dress is represented by the nightgown (a dressing gown rather than a garment worn to bed) and petticoat. Accessories such as the stockings, cap and chemise (a body garment) are very valuable since very few items from such an early period survive in museum collections. Equally important is the demonstration of how these clothes were worn together.
Ownership & Use
Dolls were widely produced in the 17th century, although very few survive, due to the wear and tear they usually undergo. The high quality of Lady Clapham and her clothes indicates that she would have been expensive. There is little evidence of use, which suggests that she was admired by adults rather than played with by children. Doll's petticoat, London, 1690-1700 of drawloom-woven satin, Italian or French c1680. Doll's petticoat of French or Italiansalmon pink silk satin with a floral pattern of purple, pale blue, emerald green, lime green, orange and deep pink. The petticoat is gathered at the waist and trimmed at the top with ivory taffeta, and at the bottom with Chinese blue silk damask. The petticoat is pleated from a narrow centre front panel to the back where it fastens.