Silver tissue with applied flower pattern. Gold embroidery (zardozi) like this used different forms of metal thread, shaped pieces of metal foil and hammered metal spangles (chumkis), as well as pieces of the iridescent wing-cases (elytra) of the beetle Sternocera aequisignata (family Buprestidae, Jewel Beetles). Many of these beetle wing cases were collected in Burma (Myanmar) and sold on through Kolkata (Calcutta). Valued for their hardness and permanence of colour, their reflective qualities were sometimes thought to ward off evil spirits. Beetle wings were used by both indigenous groups such as the Naga of N.E. India and in sumptuous Mughal court dress. Beetle wing embroidery became fashionable in Europe in the 19th century. It was usually done in India, but sometimes in Europe, using imported cut and pierced sections of beetle wing. Embroidered dress fabric with applied metal strips, sequins and pieces of beetle-wing, Madras, about 1851