1770, 1780 / 1789, Lyon, United Kingdom

1770, 1780 / 1789, Lyon, United Kingdom

Identifier
T.848-1919
Acquisition
Given by Ernest W Dormer, Esq.
Collection
Material
Technique
Depiction
Dimension
122,106 cm (circumference)
104,73.5 cm (length)
Production time
Production place
Type of object

Description

Unique Man's waistcoat, 1780s, British; cream silk satin, tamboured, embroidered, applied ribbon Man’s waistcoat with a round neckline, revers, straight fronts and hem, hip-length, with a pocket on each front. The fronts, collar and revers are made of cream silk satin, the back of cream woollen twill. The waistcoat is lined with fustian; the pockets with glazed linen. A ½-inch (1.1 cm) ribbon of black silk velvet is applied to the front neckline, revers, above the pockets and along the front edges and hems. The waistcoat is tamboured with white silk thread in horizontal, zig-zag stripes and embroidered with brown silk floss and chenille threads, silver filé, spangles and foil, in a pattern of circles between the stripes and tassels and swags below the pockets. It has a double-breasted effect with 10 embroidered buttons with 12 worked buttonholes on the left front and 12 embroidered buttons set back from the right front edge. A man's coat, 1770s, French; Uncut and voided tawny silk velvet, embroidered silver spangles, pastes; altered 1870-1910 A man's coat of tawny silk velvet, cut and voided in a small chequer-board pattern. It has a round neckline with a standing collar. The shaped, two-piece sleeves end above the wrist with round cuffs (13 cm deep). The fronts curve from neck to hem with skirts below the hip, set in pleats (13 cm) at the side seams. There is a scalloped pocket flap on each front at hip level. The coat is embroidered with silver thread, spangles and silver-foiled glass paste, in a pattern of floral sprays, down the fronts, around the back vent, on and around the pocket flaps and on the cuffs. The coat has been altered in the late 19th or early 20th century, probably for theatrical costume. The collar has been folded down and re-lined. The coat fronts and back have been re-lined with pale blue linen; parts of the original blue silk lining - pinked on one side - remain in the skirt pleats. The pleats have been cut away and reset, to provide velvet for patching under the arms. The sleeves have been lengthened under the cuffs.