1740~, Gujarat

1740~, Gujarat

Identifier
T.391-1970
Acquisition
Given by Mr and Mrs G. H. G. Norman
Collection
Material
Technique
Depiction
Production time
Production place
Type of object

Description

A woman's gown of calico with an all over pattern, of floral sprays in shades of pink, red, yellow and green interspersed with single tulips and carnations, worked in chainstitch with a needle. The dress is an open robe with English back running straight into the skirt. The skirt is arranged in flat pleats. The neck is round and the sleeves are short elbow length. The dress has an edge to edge closure at the front, without any fastenings. The bodice is linen lined and the skirt is faced with cotton with a tape band facing the hem. The dress is worn; there are contemporary patches on the lining at the back and under the arms. A woman's gown, 1775-80, British; of Indian calico chainstitched with coloured silk thread, 1740-60 The floral pattern on this dress fabric is so finely embroidered that at first sight it could be mistaken for a printed design. It is typical of the superb chain-stitch embroidery done in Gujarat, in western India, by professional craftsmen of the Mochi community, using both a tambour hook (ari) and a needle. The fabric would have been imported as piece-goods (lengths of cloth) and made up in England. The style of the dress dates it to around 1780, while the embroidered fabric appears to date from somewhat earlier in the 18th century. The dress has elbow-length sleeves, with a tight bodice section opening down the front. The full skirt is open at the front, revealing a section of the petticoat worn underneath.