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1850 / 1899, Veszprém

1850 / 1899, Veszprém

Identifier
T.192-1931
Acquisition
Given by Lady Worsley-Taylor
Collection
Material
Technique
Depiction
Dimension
146 cm (length)
168 cm (width)
Production time
Production place
Type of object

Description

In the 19th century Hungary was justifiably proud of its furriers' art, and we can see why when looking at this highly decorated detail from a floor-length sheepskin coat. The coat has been decorated using three techniques: patchwork, embroidery and appliqué. A strip of blue leather, embroidered with a meandering stem of leaves and flower heads, has been inserted into the natural brown leather that forms the cloak. Sprays of stylised flowers and leaves have been embroidered onto the brown leather using satin-stitch, with the silk thread taken all the way through the leather and back again. The scalloped band of leather running across the lower end of the image has been applied on top of the brown leather actually covering part of the embroidery. The garment has been finished with tabs and tassels. Its decoration demonstrates how skilfully tough leather can be worked. This occupation requires great strength and was always the preserve of men. The ravages of wear and time have changed the appearance of this cloak. Many of the coloured skins have faded from their original rather acid tones and most of the wool has decayed and fallen out, although part of a deep border of black lambskin can be seen at the very bottom of the image. Cloak, leather embroidered in silks, Hungary (Veszprém), 1850-1899. Man's cloak (suba) of embroidered leather with silk. The coat opens out to a semi-circle of brown leather edged with goat skin which retains its fur. It has a collar of similar skin lined with pink silk, a leather cord and tassels for fastening. Leather rosettes along the bottom hem. Decorated with yellow and blue goatskin applied in vertical stripes and a broad horizontal band about the shoulders. The applique strips are decorated with floral stems in brightly coloured silks and most of the panels contain sprays and flowers in similar embroidery. On each shoulder there is a small embroidered shield with the arms of Hungary and the crown of Saint Stephen.