15. Shoes with ‘Italian’ heels 1770–85 England Silk, silk and metal thread embroidery, leather Given by Messrs Harrods Ltd V&A: T.472&A, B, C-1913 The Perfect Heel (Object No. 15) Over the centuries, shoemakers have devised different solutions to elevating footwear. In the 18th century, a long wedged ‘Italian’ heel extended to the middle of the sole in an attempt to support the wearer’s weight. In the mid 19th century, ballerina-style shoes were equipped with simple square heels, sometimes just glued on. In the 1920s, the metal shank was invented and later the metal spike. These innovations could take more weight and meant that designers like Vivier could experiment with shapes, such as the Virgule (‘Comma’) heel. [2015] Young men of the period would often undertake a leisurely journey through Europe known as the Grand Tour. One effect of this was to introduce Continental styles of dress into England, most noticeably in men's wear but more subtly into women's dress. These women's shoes have a slender 'Italian' heel, with a wedge-like extension under the instep, a style that gained in favour in the late 1760s. The pale colour contrasts with the figured silk upper and is repeated in the latchets, which have small silver-gilt buckle fastenings. Embroidery in silver-gilt thread and spangles, as seen on the vamps of these shoes, was also popular. Pair of women's shoes of figured silk with a small 'Italian' heel and buckles F, embroidered silk, 1770s, English; Buckle F, embroidered silk, 1770s, English; Buckle gilt metal, 1750-99, English; Oval, attached to T472-1913 gilt metal, 1750-99, English; Oval, attached to T472A-1913