Middle East, Textile; Panel, silk-embroidered cotton, design of star-medallions and border cartouches on black ground, Azerbaijan or NW Iran, 1700-1800 This cover is an example of embroidery from Azerbaijan. It dates from the late 17th century. At that time Azerbaijan was larger than the modern republic. It reached further to the south and the west, with Tabriz as its main town. Technically embroideries from Azerbaijan fall into three groups. This piece, worked in cross stitch, is an example of the earliest. Until recently textile historians thought that these embroidered designs were copied from hand-knotted carpets. However, we now think that the carpet-weaving industry took its inspiration from these embroideries and not the other way round. Possibly the front panel for a large cushion; cotton embroidered with coloured silks in cross stitch. The centre is occupied with three star-shaped compartments filled with conventional serrated floral designs; round these are long irregularly shaped compartments with similar designs. The whole is surrounded by a narrow border. The ground is black, filled with serrated hook-shaped devices in colours; in three of the corners are conventional trees.