1800 / 1899, Iran

1800 / 1899, Iran

Identifier
T.235-1921
Collection
Technique
Depiction
Dimension
103.5 cm (length)
122 cm (width)
66.5 cm (width)
Production time
Production place
Type of object

Description

Brocaded silk and metal thread, satin ground, faced with roller printed cotton and plain weave silk with a cord button. Six panels seamed to form a loose T-shaped robe with gussets under the arms. Cream satin ground with a small leafy lozenge lattice delineated in white; alternate compartments contain a simple rosette in silver-gilt or a short four-line inscription in blue, red or silver-gilt, so forming vertical stripes. The sleeve ends, neck band and front chest opening are faced with one or more roller-printed plain weave cottons: around the neck a rust red ground with a large chevron repeat of brown and white with brown and dark brown bands. Also, but possibly from another fabric, a predominantly white roller-printed plain weave cotton bearing a rust red Greek Key band with a light brown 4-petalled rosette and down one side a series of thin red lines. The sleeve cuffs, again roller-printed plain weave cotton in same colouring but patterned with a series of white diagonal stripes carrying small stylised floral elements. On the left upper front there is an attached band/facing of dark blue plain weave silk with a series of narrow stripes, one plain, the others with a yellow chevron pattern with crimson red and light blue edging. This carries a silk loop embellished with silver strip, while a conical button worked in silver thread is on the opposite side. Originally the front panels from below the neck opening was decorated with tuck embroidered with silver-gilt [31 cm long], of which only 8 cm survives. This section is faced with roller-printed plain weave cotton in same colouring but patterned with a series of white diagonal stripes carrying small stylised floral elements [see sleeve cuffs]. Warp: white silk Weft: white silk, Z-twist, red S-twist and blue Z-twist. Metal Thread: silver-gilt close Z-wound on yellow silk core. The metal thread embroidered in the centre panel is silver-gilt strip on a bronze coloured silk core. The metal thread on the button is silver Z-wound on light beige silk. There is one selvedge: one cord with two white stripes. Some panels at the sides are upside down. Inside, at the level of the underarm gussets is a narrow white cotton tape which runs down the seams.