1745, England

1745, England

Identifier
T.392-1988
Carried out by
Garthwaite, Anna Maria (http://data.silknow.org/activity/designer)
Collection
Material
Technique
Depiction
Dimension
61.5 cm (height)
58.42 cm (height)
29.8 cm (width)
27.94 cm (width)
Production time
Production place
Type of object

Description

The design for this silk is in Department of Words and Image, ref: 5983:8. It is inscribed 'Mr Palmer. Mr Vautier. Aprill 3 1745'. Dress fabric of brocaded silk satin, designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite, England, 1745 Dress fabric of brocaded silk satin. Cream ground with naturalistic floral design including honeysuckle, holly and lilies. Selvedge on left side, 2 green and 1 white stripe. Incomplete pattern repeat in both height and width: by conjecture, the width of the silk would be approximately 21.75 inches. When acquired the silk was in the form of a bag, 19th or 20th century in date, from which it was unpicked. It has traces of wear and heavy creasing along a line where it was gathered. Anna Maria Garthwaite was an independent textile designer who lived and worked in Spitalfields from about 1730 until her death in 1763. She was one of the leading pattern drawers for the English silk industry, producing as many as eighty designs a year to commissions from master weavers and mercers. Her interest in natural form and talent for depicting it characterised her designs throughout her working life. The Mr Vautier who commissioned the design for this silk and is named on it in Anna Maria Garthwaite's inscription is probably Daniel Vautier, one of at least three generations of Huguenot weavers of the same name, who lived in Steward Street, Spitalfields. The Vautier family originally came from Luneray in Normandy, France, and many were involved in the English silk industry in both London and Canterbury. The Daniel Vautier probably responsible for this silk was a master weaver with a number of journeyman weavers in his employment.