1733, Spitalfields

1733, Spitalfields

Identifier
T.324&A-1985
Acquisition
Given by Gladys Windsor Fry
Collection
Material
Technique
Depiction
Dimension
38 cm (circumference)
25.5 cm (depth)
26 cm (depth)
39 cm (width)
Production time
Production place
Type of object

Description

Unique This is an example of formal day wear for a woman in the 18th century. Mantua and petticoat of white ground brocaded silk with a 24 inch repeating pattern of trees on an island, and embellished with large pink and darker pink fantastic flowers with a Chinoiserie flush pattern of a group of buildings behind the trees. Hand sewn with 2 ply 'S' spun silk and 2 ply 'S' spun threads. Mantua and petticoat of white brocaded silk, F, 1735-1740, British; probably Spitalfields 1733-1734 The draped skirts of this magnificent 1730s mantua cleverly conceal its complex construction. One of the mantua’s characteristics was a long train, which was sewn as a flat piece of silk and arranged with each wearing. The train was folded up, then folded in and draped over a loop of thread on either side of the waist. In order that the finished side of the silk always show when the mantua was worn, the train was constructed with panels of the right and wrong sides of the fabric sewn together. Pinning up and draping a train successfully was an art and required the help of maids to achieve the perfect effect. The mantua was worn over a matching petticoat and the resulting ensemble constituted formal daywear in the 1730s. Also typical for this period is the silk, intricately brocaded in a flowing pattern of large, realistically rendered flowers and leaves.