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1733, Spitalfields

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1733, Spitalfields

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Victoria and Albert MuseumVictoria and Albert Museum
Identifier
T.324&A-1985
Acquisition
Given by Gladys Windsor Fry
Collection
Textiles and Fashion Collection
Material
Silk thread
Technique
Brocaded
Depiction
  • Floral motif 76%
  • Floral motif 59%
  • Floral motif 69%
  • Floral motif 73%
  • Floral motif 47%
Dimension
38 cm (circumference)
25.5 cm (depth)
26 cm (depth)
39 cm (width)
Production time
1733
18th century (dates CE)
Production place
Spitalfields
Type of object
civil attire
fabrics
women's attire

Description

Unique This is an example of formal day wear for a woman in the 18th century. Mantua and petticoat of white ground brocaded silk with a 24 inch repeating pattern of trees on an island, and embellished with large pink and darker pink fantastic flowers with a Chinoiserie flush pattern of a group of buildings behind the trees. Hand sewn with 2 ply 'S' spun silk and 2 ply 'S' spun threads. Mantua and petticoat of white brocaded silk, F, 1735-1740, British; probably Spitalfields 1733-1734 The draped skirts of this magnificent 1730s mantua cleverly conceal its complex construction. One of the mantua’s characteristics was a long train, which was sewn as a flat piece of silk and arranged with each wearing. The train was folded up, then folded in and draped over a loop of thread on either side of the waist. In order that the finished side of the silk always show when the mantua was worn, the train was constructed with panels of the right and wrong sides of the fabric sewn together. Pinning up and draping a train successfully was an art and required the help of maids to achieve the perfect effect. The mantua was worn over a matching petticoat and the resulting ensemble constituted formal daywear in the 1730s. Also typical for this period is the silk, intricately brocaded in a flowing pattern of large, realistically rendered flowers and leaves.

The data contained in ADASilk comes from the archives of Art Institute of Chicago, Boston Museum of Fine Arts, CDMT Terrassa, Europeana, Gallica, Garín 1820, Joconde Database of French Museum Collections, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Mobilier International, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Musée des Tissus, Musei di Venezia, Museo de Arte Sacro El Tesoro de la Concepción, Paris Musées, Red Digital de Colecciones de Museos de España, Rhode Island School of Design, Sicily Cultural Heritage, Smithsonian, Versailles, Victoria and Albert Museum. The Virtual Loom and Spatio-Temporal Maps visualizations have been developed by Universitat de Valencia. ADASilk is based on a generic exploratory search engine for knowledge graphs being developed at EURECOM and includes scientific contributions from Universitat de Valencia, Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique - Lyon 2, Universita Degli Studi di Palermo, GARIN 1820 S.A., Institut Jozef Stefan, Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz Universitaet Hannover, Monkeyfab, and Instituto Cervantes.

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