Middle East, Textile; woven silk, 1800s, Persian
Long-sleeved woman's jacket, woven silk satin and metal thread, facings of woollen twill, lined with plain weave roller-printed cotton.
Multi-pieced satin with back inserts and folded sleeves showing the pattern inverted. The jacket has a long ovoid shaped opening at the front, at the bottom of which is a black silk cord loop on the right and button on the left with another similar set 5 cm down. The garment is formed on one back panel seamed at the shoulders with variously shaped inserts back and front to form hipped outline. The long narrow sleeves with pointed cuffs are set at right angles to the main panels and left open, joining with the open underarm gusset. One woven silk braid links the open sleeve seams above the elbow area.
Main silk: crimson red satin ground patterned with a small lozenge lattice each side of which is formed of two ovoid motifs and at each intersection a leaf/fruit motif in metal thread. This thread is also used for the flowering spray with green leaves inside each lozenge.
Warp: red silk, Z-twist
Weft: metal thread: silver strip open S-wound on light green silk and silver strip open s-wound on yellow silk core now faded to cream.
Facing: bias cut woollen twill with white and dark blue stripes. The latter holds very small isolated yellow and rust red motifs while the white stripes are patterned with a leafy meander in dark blue carrying the occasional small rust red/yellow flower head. This fabric also covers the inside of the pointed sleeve cuffs.
Lining: a dark blue roller printed cotton patterned with a small leaf/flower spray in light blue, white and rust red.