1796 / 1850, Hangzhou

1796 / 1850, Hangzhou

Identifier
T.754-1950
Acquisition
Bequeathed by W. Llewellyn Jones
Collection
Technique
Depiction
Dimension
118.11 cm (length)
166.37 cm (width)
111.76 cm (width)
Production time
Production place
Type of object

Description

This surcoat is known as a bufu (literally, 'the robe with a badge'), worn over ceremonial or formal robes during ritual and court ceremonies during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). This particular example would have been worn by a prince, and ought to be distinguished from the Emperor's surcoat (the gunfu) or those worn by the Crown Prince (the long gua). According to the Huangchao Liqi Tushi ('Illustrations of Imperial Ritual Paraphernalia'), the front roundel on an Emperor's gunfu must have the "five-coloured clouds", a shou (longevity) character above the front-facing five-clawed dragons, and symbols of the sun and the moon respectively in the roundels on each shoulder, to symbolise his authority in the cosmos to perform sacrifices. The roundels worn by the Crown Prince would not bear the shou character, nor the symbols of the sun and moon, but will have the clouds of five colours. These elements are absent from the roundels in this bufu, but the four roundels of front-facing dragons indicate that the robe would have been worn by one of the other imperial princes. Surcoat of navy blue silk with four woven gold five-clawed dragon medallions and trimmed with sable. The coat has short straight sleeves and opens down the centre front. The skirts are split up to waist at the sides. It has gold buttons. The design also features four of the 'twelve symbols': Sun, Moon, Stars and Mountain. There is a narrow band of gold thread round the cuffs. The coat is lined with lemon yellow silk Surcoat of woven silk and gilt thread, possibly Hangzhou, 1796-1850